juliet: (Default)

The last few days have been very busy. Here in helpful bullet point format for you:

  • Second day at the Angkor temples was also great. Ta Prohm (featured in Tomb Raider, apparently), which is falling down to various extent, is fantastic clambering-over-rubble fun, and pleasingly quiet, as soon as you get off the wooden path they've laid for the tour groups. At sunset I got Ta Keo all to myself, due primarily to the fact that about half an hour before the sun actually went, it started tipping it down. I sheltered in the top tower and watched the deluge, which was very pretty even if a sunset, per se, did not happen. On descending, the food/drink vendors outside came running over to offer me a free umbrella, but I felt that this probably wouldn't work well with cycling, especially as I already needed one hand to hold the torch.
  • Less good: getting hit by a motorbike on way home from Ta Keo. I am basically fine - bruised left elbow and wrist, enormous bruise on my arse (I think the motorbike handlebar end must have hit me there), couple of grazes, one of which is on the side of my foot and is most irritating. Possible slight whiplash, although that didn't show up till Wednesday morning and thus could be related to Hideous Bus Ride (see below). Anyway: I am still not quite sure exactly what happened, as things are slightly blurred between moment of impact, and standing by the side of the road inventorying bits of myself and being somewhat surprised that everything seemed to be broadly intact. I do remember that I made a hell of a racket, partly in an attempt to alert other traffic to my existence whilst I scrambled off the road, and partly in the hope that someone might stop. In fact, the bloke who hit me came back - although at the time I didn't know if that was who he was, because he didn't speak English and I don't speak Khmer (and was too busy shaking anyway). He put me and the bike on the back of the motorbike, and took me back to his house. Which was initially confusing, until he phoned his brother, who does speak English, to translate. We agreed that he'd take me back to the hotel and they would sort things out re the bike in the morning, so that is what happened. Anyway: no major harm done, but it was bloody scary.
  • Tuesday was Siam Reap to Bangkok. Minibus arrived at hotel, and I got in, assuming that (as per the Phnom Penh to Siam Reap bus) this would take us to the bus station, where we would transfer to the real bus, with a/c and nice seats, to get to the border. Not So. Scrotty minibus (and I had the seat over the wheel arch, Deep Joy) for entire 6-hr journey to Poipet, on the Cambodian/Thai border. Over the most appalling dirt-plus-pothole (mostly pothole) road it has ever been my misfortune to encounter. Also at frequent intervals there was a big swerve off the road as they're rebuilding all the bridges and have built dirt-and-pothole detours around them. Minibus did not have a/c, so all the windows were open, which when driving through a big dust-cloud for 6 hrs means that you get very, very grubby. My back still aches today, and I genuinely do suspect that this is road-related rather than accident-related. Anyway, we finally reached the border (I note for the record that Poipet is a dump, really: even bigger potholes and rammed with goods lorries), and I ran away from the minibus, deeply grateful that I'd only booked to the border. (Well, I say "ran"; in fact I mean "limped slowly and pathetically due to hideous wound in foot".) Then I ran away from someone else offering another minibus. Instead, I got a tuk-tuk to the bus station, where I bought a ticket on a lovely, comfy, a/c and toilet equipped express bus to Bangkok. Even got a bizarre Thai film featuring a humorous transvestite and some kind of heroic contract killer (or possibly a bodyguard - he was cute, wore black, and shot lots of people, but only Bad People) to watch as a bonus.
  • On arrival in Bangkok I got on a moto for the first time (and bargained him down to 60% of his original price, thus only getting overcharged by probably around 100% instead of 200%); got on the SKYTRAIN which is a TRAIN in the SKY and thus very exciting (actually it is the Tube in the sky which is even more exciting); found a hotel; washed my trousers for the 2nd time (finally the sand from the accident has gone, hurrah); went next door to the hotel and ate pizza (it was 2130 and I seriously could not face going any further); went to sleep mmm lovely sleep.
  • Wednesday morning I had approx 6 hours in Bangkok, which seemed like enough time to do something nice after I'd collected my train ticket and dumped my rucksack. So I went to the post office (three letters! Thank you Mum, Wendy, and Kat!), and then to the river, where I got on a river boat up to the Royal Palace. Why doesn't London make more use of the river? I know we have a couple of commute-type boats, but they're so damn expensive, and IIRC fairly slow. The Bangkok one is both cheap (25p flat fee) and pretty whizzy, although you do get splashed a bit. The Royal Palace was very, very, very shiny. Lots of gilt and coloured glass. Mostly what I saw was the Emerald Buddha (actually jade) which was interesting, but possibly more interesting was the large number of people coming in for actual worship (i.e. not tourists). Then it absolutely tipped it down for a bit, so I didn't really see much else before having to set off to walk through Chinatown back to the station.
  • Back on the train from Bangkok to Butterworth after my Cambodian bus interlude; once again v comfy, and this time you have the option of dinner being brought to your seat. Veggie option available and everything! Comfort levels generally quite high; I approve.
  • The people across the aisle from me, Meg and Jeff, are also travelling from the UK to Australia overland! So chatting to them was very nice, and I shall be following their blog.

Now I am in Penang (just across the water from Butterworth) for about 6 hrs, having finally located a left luggage option for my rucksack which consisted of a broom cupboard opened by the station manager. Found food, had a little wander, here checking the emails now.

juliet: (Default)

The last few days have been very busy. Here in helpful bullet point format for you:

  • Second day at the Angkor temples was also great. Ta Prohm (featured in Tomb Raider, apparently), which is falling down to various extent, is fantastic clambering-over-rubble fun, and pleasingly quiet, as soon as you get off the wooden path they've laid for the tour groups. At sunset I got Ta Keo all to myself, due primarily to the fact that about half an hour before the sun actually went, it started tipping it down. I sheltered in the top tower and watched the deluge, which was very pretty even if a sunset, per se, did not happen. On descending, the food/drink vendors outside came running over to offer me a free umbrella, but I felt that this probably wouldn't work well with cycling, especially as I already needed one hand to hold the torch.
  • Less good: getting hit by a motorbike on way home from Ta Keo. I am basically fine - bruised left elbow and wrist, enormous bruise on my arse (I think the motorbike handlebar end must have hit me there), couple of grazes, one of which is on the side of my foot and is most irritating. Possible slight whiplash, although that didn't show up till Wednesday morning and thus could be related to Hideous Bus Ride (see below). Anyway: I am still not quite sure exactly what happened, as things are slightly blurred between moment of impact, and standing by the side of the road inventorying bits of myself and being somewhat surprised that everything seemed to be broadly intact. I do remember that I made a hell of a racket, partly in an attempt to alert other traffic to my existence whilst I scrambled off the road, and partly in the hope that someone might stop. In fact, the bloke who hit me came back - although at the time I didn't know if that was who he was, because he didn't speak English and I don't speak Khmer (and was too busy shaking anyway). He put me and the bike on the back of the motorbike, and took me back to his house. Which was initially confusing, until he phoned his brother, who does speak English, to translate. We agreed that he'd take me back to the hotel and they would sort things out re the bike in the morning, so that is what happened. Anyway: no major harm done, but it was bloody scary.
  • Tuesday was Siam Reap to Bangkok. Minibus arrived at hotel, and I got in, assuming that (as per the Phnom Penh to Siam Reap bus) this would take us to the bus station, where we would transfer to the real bus, with a/c and nice seats, to get to the border. Not So. Scrotty minibus (and I had the seat over the wheel arch, Deep Joy) for entire 6-hr journey to Poipet, on the Cambodian/Thai border. Over the most appalling dirt-plus-pothole (mostly pothole) road it has ever been my misfortune to encounter. Also at frequent intervals there was a big swerve off the road as they're rebuilding all the bridges and have built dirt-and-pothole detours around them. Minibus did not have a/c, so all the windows were open, which when driving through a big dust-cloud for 6 hrs means that you get very, very grubby. My back still aches today, and I genuinely do suspect that this is road-related rather than accident-related. Anyway, we finally reached the border (I note for the record that Poipet is a dump, really: even bigger potholes and rammed with goods lorries), and I ran away from the minibus, deeply grateful that I'd only booked to the border. (Well, I say "ran"; in fact I mean "limped slowly and pathetically due to hideous wound in foot".) Then I ran away from someone else offering another minibus. Instead, I got a tuk-tuk to the bus station, where I bought a ticket on a lovely, comfy, a/c and toilet equipped express bus to Bangkok. Even got a bizarre Thai film featuring a humorous transvestite and some kind of heroic contract killer (or possibly a bodyguard - he was cute, wore black, and shot lots of people, but only Bad People) to watch as a bonus.
  • On arrival in Bangkok I got on a moto for the first time (and bargained him down to 60% of his original price, thus only getting overcharged by probably around 100% instead of 200%); got on the SKYTRAIN which is a TRAIN in the SKY and thus very exciting (actually it is the Tube in the sky which is even more exciting); found a hotel; washed my trousers for the 2nd time (finally the sand from the accident has gone, hurrah); went next door to the hotel and ate pizza (it was 2130 and I seriously could not face going any further); went to sleep mmm lovely sleep.
  • Wednesday morning I had approx 6 hours in Bangkok, which seemed like enough time to do something nice after I'd collected my train ticket and dumped my rucksack. So I went to the post office (three letters! Thank you Mum, Wendy, and Kat!), and then to the river, where I got on a river boat up to the Royal Palace. Why doesn't London make more use of the river? I know we have a couple of commute-type boats, but they're so damn expensive, and IIRC fairly slow. The Bangkok one is both cheap (25p flat fee) and pretty whizzy, although you do get splashed a bit. The Royal Palace was very, very, very shiny. Lots of gilt and coloured glass. Mostly what I saw was the Emerald Buddha (actually jade) which was interesting, but possibly more interesting was the large number of people coming in for actual worship (i.e. not tourists). Then it absolutely tipped it down for a bit, so I didn't really see much else before having to set off to walk through Chinatown back to the station.
  • Back on the train from Bangkok to Butterworth after my Cambodian bus interlude; once again v comfy, and this time you have the option of dinner being brought to your seat. Veggie option available and everything! Comfort levels generally quite high; I approve.
  • The people across the aisle from me, Meg and Jeff, are also travelling from the UK to Australia overland! So chatting to them was very nice, and I shall be following their blog.

Now I am in Penang (just across the water from Butterworth) for about 6 hrs, having finally located a left luggage option for my rucksack which consisted of a broom cupboard opened by the station manager. Found food, had a little wander, here checking the emails now.

juliet: (round the world)
Got to Siam Reap this afternoon, & after some kerfuffle with hotel rooms have fetched up with an enormous room in a place at the end of a impressively potholed dirt road. I discovered that you can get your ticket for the temples the evening before (thus avoiding the queues the next morning around sunrise), so hired a bike and pottered up off the road.

Accidentally got into a small race with four of the local youth also on bikes, which was entertaining (well: they overtook me one by one, and then were just in front of me and grinning at me in a cheerful fashion, and what was I supposed to do? I was actually surprised by how categorically I dropped them; obviously I'm not quite as unfit as I thought I was getting).

After some debate bought the 3-day ticket (I can only stay for 2 days, but it's 2 x the 1-day price), which it transpired also meant that you get an hour that evening for free. So I headed up to Angkor Wat for an hour around sunset. It really is fantastic, incredibly impressive; I'm really looking forward to going back tomorrow. (This does mean I'll only get half a day in Bangkok, but never mind.)

(There is a chap at the computer next to me who is saying, oh, $40, I don't think I'll bother. Crazy. Mind you, he seems to be in a bad mood generally.)

Coming back along the impressively potholed road on the bike in the dark was exciting, in a slightly splashy way. It's definitely the rainy season here, although I've managed so far not to get caught in it.
juliet: (round the world)
Got to Siam Reap this afternoon, & after some kerfuffle with hotel rooms have fetched up with an enormous room in a place at the end of a impressively potholed dirt road. I discovered that you can get your ticket for the temples the evening before (thus avoiding the queues the next morning around sunrise), so hired a bike and pottered up off the road.

Accidentally got into a small race with four of the local youth also on bikes, which was entertaining (well: they overtook me one by one, and then were just in front of me and grinning at me in a cheerful fashion, and what was I supposed to do? I was actually surprised by how categorically I dropped them; obviously I'm not quite as unfit as I thought I was getting).

After some debate bought the 3-day ticket (I can only stay for 2 days, but it's 2 x the 1-day price), which it transpired also meant that you get an hour that evening for free. So I headed up to Angkor Wat for an hour around sunset. It really is fantastic, incredibly impressive; I'm really looking forward to going back tomorrow. (This does mean I'll only get half a day in Bangkok, but never mind.)

(There is a chap at the computer next to me who is saying, oh, $40, I don't think I'll bother. Crazy. Mind you, he seems to be in a bad mood generally.)

Coming back along the impressively potholed road on the bike in the dark was exciting, in a slightly splashy way. It's definitely the rainy season here, although I've managed so far not to get caught in it.

August 2017

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